Hey guys welcome back to my channel In today’s video I wanted to give you a brief explanation of color levels and color tones and go over a little bit of color theory in hair so that you can determine what color is both right for you and whether that color is achievable with your hair type and hair color So I did a video similar to this years ago but it was very technical and very long.
And I still get a lot of questions so I figured I wanted to really give you more even in-depth information but are Really keeping it simple and basic so that even if you’re not a hairdresser, you still understand this a little bit more So I just wanna start off with a very basic color level chart So this is the darkest, which is basically a Black and this is a blonde Now some coloring brands work on a 1 to 10 level Some companies go from like 2 to 12it doesn’t matter because the range of colors is still the same Obviously.
So the first thing that you really need to understand about hair if you’re even thinking about changing your hair color is the level and the level is the most important thing And a lot of people will say tone when they mean level and a lot of people will say color or hue or darkness or any of that But level just means how light or how dark the hair is This doesn’t mean what kind of tone whether its gold whether its ashy, whether its blue Whether its purple,.
Whether its red, level doesn’t say any of that So basically if you imagine the darkest level of hair color if I were to put say a Green color over that, is that gonna show? No Its not And that answers a lot of questions about a lot of girls that come in with dark hair and want you know pastels or you know Just like really bright colors.
And when I tell them you have to bleach your hair first they don’t understand They’re like Why Why can’t you just put the pastel color on? Because if I were to take a blue marker and you know color torture not gonna see that because its a dark canvas We need to bleach it and brighten the canvas up,.
So that that color can actually show So that’s one of the most asked questions Now were jumping into tone And a lot of people will say like I hate the tone of my hair I wanna be lighter Then that means you don’t like the level of your hair not the tone of your hair Because like I said all of our hair is one of these levels.
Everyone on earth their hair is one of these levels So basically my hair down here is about a level 10 and the darkest pieces are about the level 6 So the no The thing is when people say like My hair is brown and I want it to be a shy Again Ash is like imagining like a violet, almost greenish tint,.
Again If I were to put a green marker over that is that going to show? Not really So that’s another thing that I explained to clients when they want this color super gorgeous and really ashy color But this color actually is, is you have to bleach to about here and then put in that super ashy color and it almost deepens you up, so you’re kind of back at that level but you’ll be much ashier because you have that light base that we can add that ash to The way I like to imagine this color chart is again This is the levels.
And then on the top and the bottom of each color there is tone So let’s just imagine that the whole top section is gold the whole bottom section is a shy And then what you see here is the neutral form of each level But the main thing that I want you guys to understand is in order to really get ash into the hair you kind of have to be in This range here.
You have to be like a level 7 or lighter for us to really add Ash into that color Because naturally these colors on– if you look at them like on the color wheel these colors their main color to make up this rich, intense dark color Is red So if you’re stripping the dark out, what first going to be exposed is the reddish and oranges kind of tones So a lot of times when people like My hair just like always fades to this really orange tone.
Not if you go to here because if you’re blonde and the hair is bright that hair can’t– it’s not gonna go back ever But it will go back to its original tone and technically there should be a gold, a neutral and an ash for each level But again on something as dark as this, there’s not gonna be a cool version of this and a dark version of this It’s just so dark.
And the same thing goes all the way kind of up until about a level 5ish So from then on then you have a little bit more range and you can you know be a 7 gold or a 7 ash or an 8 gold or an 8 ash And the point of this video is hopeful not to bore you with all of this color theory; and if you’re not a hairdresser This probably sounds like a different language, but I’m really trying to simplify it as much as I absolutely cannot that you need to learn this, but it makes it so much more helpful,.
When there’s a color that you want and you can’t seem to get there Hopefully this will answer a lot of those questions and you yourself can determine, Yes I can actually get there or No that’s that is what I thought, I wanted that Doesn’t exist And now probably for the last and most crucial part as me being a blonde specialist Obviously? I lighten a lot of hair that’s in this range That want to be here.
So normally color specialists will lift you 1 to 2 colors maybe and either again change the tone, maybe make you extra gold maybe make you extra ashy That’s what a color specialist is, is really creating these sort of colors but not necessarily jumping from here to here or here to here The blonde specialist We take you from the beginning part of this color chart to the end And that is the trickiest thing you can do with her because obviously it involves a lot of science and it involves a lot of risk, which is obviously the scary part.
So if someone comes in to say level 5 hair technically I don’t care how amazing that bleach is normally you can only lift 3to 4 levels in one session and that’s with the most amazing bleach the most amazing add-on such as Olaplex or Redkens pH-Bonder and most of all the hair needs to be healthy from the start This is in the best possible situation So you’re coming with healthy hair and were using a pH bonder in the hair Meaning that we can go lot stronger with the bleach.
And your hair is still going to be healthy So even doing all of that like I said, we can still only jump 3 maybe 4 levels So this is why if you come in to say This level hair you can’t get there in one day No I mean unless the hairdresser does multIple bonding sessions in one day which is really not advisable and can completely damage your hair to like its melting point Say you are coming in with hair that’s already pretty fatigued? You’ve already had a few bleaching session.
And say you’re here if your hair is dry damaged and brittle we really have to go lower to the developer which means you’re going to get even less lift? which means less range on this color chart So maybe we can only do10 volume or 20 volume? which is only join to give you 1 level of lift Maybe two levels of lift Doing 2 levels of lift and then with a toner you’re not going to notice much difference and this is where it becomes really frustrating,.
With clients that don’t have necessarily healthy hair, but do want to become blonde Now that is not to say that you can’t ever get there it just means that before you go on with the coloring sessions you really need to heal your hair So obviously if your hair is already a little bit compromised absolutely And get your hair bleached without Olaplex without a pH-Bonder It really is the insurance for your hair Because I can’t stress enough.
How amazing and beautiful blonde hair will look on healthy hair Because you can get someone from here, maybe to here in one day and get them really blonde but if their hair is straw and dry and damaged like it is not going to look pretty and its not even going to look like its the level it actually is So in order to really have that bright gorgeous buttery blonde haIr The hair needs to be healthy first And now, aside from what you can get done in the salon,.
There’s definitely homework, you can be doing at home before even going into a color appointment And that starts with using good healing hair products at home You guys have heard me talk about this countless times, but I can’t stress how important it is to really heal your hair And as you guys know until today, as a hairdresser for all the products I have ever tried nothing has ever healed, hair as well as the Monat system.
I can’t tell you how many clients have come in with dry, damaged hair that I wasn’t even able to work on I send them home I ask them to get on a Monat regimen and 4 to 6 weeks later they come back and we are able to get their hair finally to their dream color Even when I have one of those days that I have to turn away a client because there’s nothing I can do on their hair trust me It’s just as sad for me as it is for you guys,.
A: I’m not making money and B: I’m not doing my duty I’m not giving you your dream hair and that’s obvious a terrible terrible feeling But I promise you that when your hair is healthy you’re gonna love your hair and that new color so much more So guys do your homework I hope that this little color chart and this little explanation has helped I love you all so so much Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in the next video Bye.